A small forward and larger rear table are ingeniously mounted in a manner that allows them to swivel into place, then stow without removing. Westly's front table was missing when he rolled into my life and as it didn't seem all that useful, I've never replaced it.
The rear table though is much in demand for food preparation and serving, coloring books, map reading, perusal of the Bentley Manual, etc. Two locking knobs (In Westly's case two metal rods welded on) allow the table to be locked into a multitude of handy positions. The table stows nicely out of the way of the seat / bed, but in doing so blocks access to two storage lockers and the hanging closet.
Van Kid munches on snacks and colors a treasure map at the table |
The rear table stowed - out of the way, but limited access to cabinets |
Rear Table Height Adjuster
I went to my local home improvement store and purchased a 3/4" X 24" galvanized pipe, a 3/4" PVC box adapter and a 3/4" PVC union. I cut the pipe to 22" leaving the orange plastic thread protector on one end. Then I removed the table swivel base and used a cut-off wheel to detach the original galvanized stub.
Trimmed pipe with the union jammed into one end The box adapter goes in the hole in the swivel base |
How it all fits together |
Swivel base bolted back into place with pipe dropped in |
The pipe with plastic sleeve pokes through here The table legs slips right over it and down to the base |
Raised position allows access to lockers |
While I was poking around online finding information about table height adjustment, I came across a thread where cunning Westy owners had made a bracket to mount the table outdoors, using the jack point on the side of the van. At least one vendor sells this ready-made and it looks real slick, but as usual, I had my own ideas. Gathering some leftover odds and ends from around my shop, I put this together:
What is this thing and why is it in my Westy?? |
The rear table sets on a adjustable rod Higher for cooking It will raise another 11 inches if necessary |
Lower for dining (camping scenes simulated for illustrative purposes) |
Pipe fits into jack point, hitch pin holds it in place |
1.5" X 3/4" PVC T fitting / threaded in the 3/4 opening
3/4" X 18" galvanized pipe (leave the orange cap on one end)
Suprotek PC-110 rebar pad (the foot)
Structron Super Handle - shortened to 23"
1/4" X 1-3/4" cotter-less (spring loaded ball) hitch pin
The Super Handle is a telescoping fiberglass pole used by painters and janitors. You twist the two parts in opposite directions to loosen, then the inner part can be raised or lowered. The threaded end where a brush or broom was intended to be attached is just the right size for the Westy table to rest on. To trim it to size requires taking it apart and cutting the two parts individually. When I had the size correct, I epoxied it into the upper (longer) ABS tube. The two ABS tubes were then attached to the T fitting ( I didn't glue them in so I could break it down for more compact storage), the galvanized pipe was drilled to accept the hitch pin (just inside the jack point opening - see picture). The rebar foot needed a little sanding to press-fit inside the lower ABS tube.
The foot is not adjustable, as it is on the slick vendor version. For uneven ground, a rock or stick wedged under the foot will suffice. The stand flexes a little when people are stepping into and out of the van, but not enough to worry about. The tire jack can be put in place on the opposite side to stabilize ( BTW - this is also a useful trick to stabilize the van in strong winds or when lots of motion is taking place inside).
After I made this, I saw a jack that was modified with a tube and locking knob on the side so the table and it's leg can be set into it. Great idea - you're already carrying around the jack in case of a flat tire, and now it has an additional use. I'll try this sometime.
Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI)
The AC-110 volt circuit in the Westfalia conversion consists of an outside electrical cord connector, a 15 amp circuit breaker, one duplex mounted below the rear table, and one duplex inside the cabinet below the stove/sink (that's where the fridge plugs in). The original brown bakelite was cracked and chipped, so I made plans to upgrade.
Since camping with Westly often includes some type of wet inside and out, it seemed a logical choice to add one. Because of the circuitry inside, the GFCI tends to be a little deeper than a standard duplex. I added a deeper utility box to accommodate it (remodel box from Ace Hardware) and new white vinyl plates for the duplex and the circuit breaker.
Seat Back Backpack
Really just an old day pack that was sitting around. I hung it on the back of the passenger seat where it serves admirably holding a litter bag, first aid kit, extra batteries, coloring books, TP, in short a lot of stuff that we would otherwise be constantly searching for all over the dash, floor, seats, squirreled away in some bin somewhere. It also detaches easily to use for it's intended purpose.
See more modifications here...
I'm SOOO copying your rear table-raiser idea!
ReplyDeleteKeep the ideas comin'...
Zippyslug - Yes! Please do & let me know how it turns out.
DeleteRegarding the Rear Table Height Adjuster:
ReplyDeleteWas easy to find the 3/4" X 24" galvanized pipe at the hardware store.
Even found the 3/4" PVC box adapter - http://www.homedepot.com/p/Carlon-3-4-in-PVC-Conduit-Box-Adapter-E996ER-CTN/100188529#.UdsqX5ywV8E
But after 2 different store visits and an online search, I can't find the 3/4" PVC union.
Any chance you know how to get a hold of them?
Thanks and GREAT idea!
I'm pretty sure I picked up the 3/4 union at Lowes and if I could find my receipt I'd give you the part number. Did you check Lowes.com? Hopefully you've found something by now anyway! Since installing the table height adjuster, I always stow the table at the same height as the range/sink. That way the storage bins below are always accessible and the table edge rests against the curtains so there's no bumping into the wall while driving. I did have to put thread lock on the two bracket bolts directly under the cabinet top as they kept working loose. Thanks for your comment!
DeleteDoes your table indeed lock into position? My mounting bracket has a metal flap that fits between the screw and post. This offers little resistance to swivel even when torqued down as tight as I can. This allows the table to swing out when taking a hard left. Have you had this issue? I was thinking about grinding the flap out and punching divits into the post to allow the screw to seat into various positions. Thoughts?
ReplyDeleteMy table locks very securely. I've driven for weeks with it in the raised position and it doesn't move at all. It may be because with the metal rod welded onto the threaded post I can really crank down on it. Mine does has the metal flap inside as well and when I took it all apart, i noticed the contact surface was surprisingly smooth.
DeleteI think your solution would work, but before you do that and lose some of the adjustability, you could try roughing up the contact surface of the flap with a file or grinding disc. Let me know how it works out!
Thank you for the prompt response.
ReplyDeleteI was looking into getting some 1/4"x3/4" metal strap and creating some hangers for the tray above the stove. I haven't done it yet so I was going to start with 6" and then use a mallet and my vice to bend them into shape:
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Plasti-dip them with a color that matches my van(same as yours) and banana, pan and voodoo doll hangers.
I want to use flat metal as opposed to the round ones to limit rocking and sliding.
I like that idea! I tried some magnetic clips, but they weren't strong enough to hold anything heavier than a recipe, and how often do you use a recipe while you're camping? I wonder if the rain gutter hooks for hanging lights on the house would work? I'll check that out tomorrow.
ReplyDelete