Wild Horse Wind Farm and Other Destinations

Van Brother was home from college for a few months and wanted to do some camping before starting a summer job. The Western Washington forecast of overcast skies and showers had us longing for a healthy dose of vitamin D, so after a day (which turned out surprisingly sunny) at the Seattle Folk-Life Festival, we packed a few essentials and directed Westly to Eastern Washington.

 

First, a few scenes from the Folk Life Festival

Sunrise at Indian John Hill rest area

Not too far over Snoqualmie Pass, the Indian John Hill rest area is a great place to stealth camp - clean restrooms, free coffee and enough parking so you can usually find a somewhat quiet spot.  Following an abbreviated breakfast, we continued West leaving I-90 (decidedly un-blue) to mosey along on scenic Hwy 10.  In Ellensburg, just past Central Washington University, the route continues as the Vantage Highway.  We turned North at Beacon Ridge Road to visit the Wild Horse Wind and Solar Facility.

We picked up this spare wind turbine to keep Westly's battery charged

Van Kid is ready for
the tour

The wind blows through here almost constantly with gusts up to 95 miles per hour. A total of 149 wind turbines generate enough electricity for 80,000 homes needing as little as 6 mph of wind.  These windmills are impressive!  The towers are 221 feet tall, anchored in bedrock up to 32 feet deep with 120 bolts that each weigh 150 pounds and are 28 feet long.  The three turbine blades are 129 feet long and weigh 7 tons each. The rotations are limited to 16.5 revolutions per minute (greatly reducing bird fatalities) but even at that speed the blade tips are traveling at 150 miles per hour.  Two solar arrays of 2,723 panels provide all the power needed for the entire facility including the Renewable Energy Visitor Center.  We toured the facility and were only temporarily dismayed that we could not climb up in the tower, only step inside the base and look up at the very, very tall ladder.

One of three Elk herds we saw along the road

Inspecting a carcass

Looking East toward the Columbia River Gorge
The road became so rough, we had to turn back

And it mostly was...

While there, we signed up for a permit (yet another pass to add to our collection)  to drive through the 10,000 acre property which covers rolling hills, valleys and piney woods.  The wind turbines occupy a relatively small part of it with the remainder being open for recreation - mostly atv trail riding and hunting in season.

After leaving the wind farm, we continued on the Vantage Highway to the Ginkgo Petrified Forest.  The forest, discovered in the 1920's during road construction, is considered one of the most unusual in the world. More than 50 species of trees have been found here, dating from 15.5 million years (give or take a few) ago.  It's hard to imagine such a lush forest while standing there in the sand and sagebrush, but I suppose you should expect a few changes over that passage of time. The park construction was originally done in the charming manner of '30's era Civilian Conservation Corps.  A small museum has a stunning display of petrified wood (the official Washington State gem) and petroglyphs made by the Wanapum tribe.  Crossing the Columbia River requires returning to I-90 as the Vantage Highway just ends right in the river.  There was an old bridge here that was disassembled in 1968 and used to cross the Snake River near Starbuck, Washington.

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Van Kid receives first aid after a mishap on the trail
The cage we're sitting on covers a partially buried petrified Horse Chestnut log
Did I mention it was sunny and hot?  Just what we were looking for!

Grandfather Cuts Loose The Ponies
No trip to Eastern Washington on I-90 would be complete without stopping here

On the Interstate again, just past George, Hwy 283 heads off to the Northeast, intersects with Hwy 28 near Ephrata, and then; next stop - one of our favorite destinations - Smokiam (Soap Lake).  We settled in at Smokiam Campground on the South end of the lake.  Small, clean and inexpensive, though we paid extra for an RV spot this time because they are right on the lake while the tent sites are just a chain-link fence from the road.

Radiant in the late afternoon sun

Van kid hangs out at Smokiam Park...

and does the jungle gym

Breakfast is ready!

Following breakfast, we hiked near Lake Lenore exploring caves and an old abandoned ranch. Along the trail we were startled by a Western Rattlesnake (crotalus viridis) which (being just as startled at seeing us) hid behind a rock, but left it's rattle exposed.  My friend Redwood was bitten by a rattler near here last year, so we were trying to be cautious, but the fact is that when a snake is lying there among the rocks, dirt and dry grasses, it is next to impossible to see. We named the area Rattlesnake Gulch, and then vacated expeditiously.  

Here's what we saw of the snake

The very pleasant Westy Family

At one trail head, we parked next to a blue Westy, then later met it's people.  Before their son was born, they spent most of a year visiting 41 states and 5 provinces, traveling over 26,000 miles in the van.  They blogged extensively about the adventure here.  

Lake Lenore in the distance

Unusual rock formation on the shore of Lake Lenore

Now thoroughly hot and dusty, we intended to take a swim in Lake Lenore, but the afternoon winds had freshened and the water was feeling rather cold.  We waded knee-deep, then dried off on the warm rocks and ate clam chowder.  Way too soon it was time to go West, back to Seattle to prepare for work, school, and get the garbage and recycle cans out to the curb.  

As usual, the rain started in around Hyak.  

Lake Smokiam

By mid April, Westly and I were ready for some intense sunlight.  We had enjoyed a handful of partly to mostly sunny days in Seattle so far, even one where the mercury soared to 70 deg f (the previous spring our first 70 deg day was not until mid May).  What's the quickest way to bask in sunshine in Western Washington?  Trick question - the quickest way most of the year is to travel east for a few hours.  Eastern Washington is a completely different climate zone.  As you descend from the Cascade range across the alluvial terraces into the Columbia Basin and beyond (the Intermontane climatic region) the average rainfall plummets from 40 to 180 (Olympic Rain Forest) inches per year to 25, 15, 10 and in some areas even less.  I had been planning a trip like this all winter, and now was the time.

I packed some food, clothes, hiking boots, and - this time I remembered to bring a camera.  After work Saturday morning, I picked up my friend Redwood, and we headed east on I-90 toward Snoqualmie Pass.  This was the same pass where Westly had run dry a few weeks earlier so I made sure the tank was topped off.  The cloud cover was thinning as Westly charged up the grade.  At Hyak, near the summit, several feet of snow still bordered the road.  Keechelus Lake lay beside us, flat and gray until a late morning sun-break set it to sparkling.  By the time we reached Cle Elum (a somewhat loose translation of the Kittitas Tribe word for "swift water") it was time to shut off the heat and watch for the Indian John Hill rest area.

Finally feeling the warmth at Indian John Hill

Greatly refreshed, we continued on, descending into the Kittitas Valley, through Ellensburg, and then through some lower foothills and down to cross the Columbia River.  Across the river and up the hill at Vantage is an art installation titled "Grandfather Cuts Loose the Ponies".  You can see it easily from the freeway, but if you have the time I advise taking the first exit up Frenchmen Hill out of the river gorge.  From there it's a short, but steep hike up to visit the herd.  This string of 15 wild horses, cut from 1 inch steel was created by artist David Govedare in 1989.

An very succinct video clip from Mikes Road Trip 

Back on I-90, the terrain levels out into the Columbia Basin.  Just past George (average annual rainfall just 8 inches), Hwy 283 cuts off in a North-Easterly direction, intersecting with Hwy 28 near Ephrata.  Not far after, Hwy 17 heads North to our destination, Soap Lake.



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Soap Lake is located at the South end of the Coulee Corridor which was formed around 11,000 to 17,000 years ago by a series of floods that ended the last ice age.  The floods eventually emptied glacial Lake Missoula, sending more than 500 cubic miles of water at an estimated 15 times the combined flow of all the rivers currently in the world.  It rushed across parts of Washington, Idaho and Oregon carrying along billions of tons of earth and rock as it went.  The Grand Coulee and Channeled Scablands of Washington, the Columbia River Gorge in Washington and Oregon and the Willamette Valley in Oregon are all the result of these floods.

The lake is unusual in that it a meromitric lake - two layers of differing mineral composition that have apparently not ever mixed.   The Grand Coulee was a sort of highway for Native American tribes to access the Columbia river basin.  They would camp and stash supplies in caves along the way, and they valued the water and mud of Soap Lake for it's medicinal properties.  They referred to the lake as Smokiam which means "Healing Waters".

Downtown Soap Lake
No traffic signals

The city of Soap Lake is populated by around 1,740 highly individual people.  Redwood and I met with his friend Lady Smokiam who lives nearby.  After downing some deliciously cool glasses of water, we all walked downtown for a snack and a visit to the Soap Lake Art Museum.  Here SoapBlake regaled us with his grandiose visions such as erecting the worlds largest lava lamp in downtown.

How groovy would this be??

We also learned that there is a somewhat divisive issue about the name of the lake (not the first time, by the way - it was once known as Siloam).  Some of the residents would like to change it to Lake Smokiam to honor the ancient history of the lake and so potential visitors won't mistakenly think that it's suffering from some kind of grey-water run-off problem.  Others think the name Soap Lake has been fine for the past 100 years, and don't you even think about messing with it.  Well, what's your opinion?

Update:  04/28 - Now the Yakama Nation, having been defined by an 1855 treaty as the indigenous people of the Soap Lake area have requested that the name be changed to Cheem-Ti-Wa-Tum (no translation given) which is what their elders called it.

The following poem is from the back of the Don's Restaurant  "Dining With A Western Flavor" menu:

SMOKIAM

There is healing in the waters and the sunlight - by the lake,

Here your ailments and disorders could dissolve without mistake.

You must try this awesome wonder if you ail and might be cured...

'Tis a miracle of nature...half-again plus all you've heard.

In the past our redskin brothers met beside Smokiams's shore,

And they bathed here and they healed here...this was in the days of yore.

Never man was offered bounty like this spa in desert sun,

Ultra-violet shines upon you, breezes cool - when day is done.

You must come to see the wonder of this mineral water spa,

And the truths you'll see around you all are part of nature's law.

Mineral water is our treasure, come and sample if you'd care,

You may find that life awaits you...you may find your answered prayer!

By Joyce E. Conklin, November, 1981

Anyway, we came here to camp and hike, so let's get on with it.  Lady Smokiam suggested we could  camp on a lot she had at the North end of the lake and as the day was about spent, we took her up on the offer.  The late afternoon wind continued to hang around into the evening, whipping the pop-top canvas into a mesmerizing percussive beat.  I pulled Westly around into the lee of some neglected out buildings to gain shelter from the gale.  After feasting on pasta fettuccine and V8, we dozed peacefully.

Shelter from the wind

Morning brought a symphony of melodious bird song under scattered clouds.  After breakfast we visited the city park which has a sandy beach along the South end of the lake with playground, showers (summer only) and even a small campground (I stayed there last summer while camping with my Outback - nice but a little close to the highway).

Art in Soap Lake City Park

Remember when playgrounds had swings and a merry go round?
At Soap Lake, they still do

The water was still a little too cold for swimming, so we met with Lady Smokiam who had promised to lead us to view some native petroglyphs (after coffee).

Redwood prepares for the trek

We set off on what turned out to be a close to 12 mile hike up canyons, through draws, across mesas, past long abandoned homesteads, and finally to the petroglyph rock.

On the trail

Basalt cliffs

A busy bumble bee shares a flower with a tiny spider
Click to enlarge

Cistern at an old homestead

The petroglyph rock

Mock Orange in bloom framed by a cave

Upon returning to town and freshening up, we strolled to Don's Restaurant to replenish lost carbs.  This is a real cowboy steakhouse, and bonus - you can purchase Indian Princess dolls and/or bundles of firewood at the cash register.

Fine dining in Soap Lake
The sign must have been neon at one time...

Soap Lake House

Canna Street South

Soap Lake house made of basalt rocks

Being thoroughly sated, we scouted out a remote campsite amongst the sagebrush, made some music for awhile, and called it a day.  Early next morning, a light mist was swirling about as we reluctantly made our way back to Seattle.

Making camp in the afterglow

Below - Westly moves it.  Thanks Redwood for putting this video together

Redwood also sent me these images he created on the trip:

Westly in the Wild Horse Monument parking lot

Found on the curb behind Westly

Tagged Pony

Sunday Morning calm at Lake Smokiam

Prepared for rough riding

Deception Pass State Park

Wow, three followers now - the pressure is on to provide a steady stream of quality content!  Did I just hear someone ask when the quality content would be commencing? Hey, I'm doing my best.

In early February, Van Kid, Westly and I were hankering for some adventure.  The Wet Westies were gathering at Deception Pass State Park, and we made plans to join them.  We could leave Friday evening and have two days and nights of camping!  Alas, we were thwarted in our plans.  I was scheduled to work early Saturday morning, and Van Spouse issued a decree that income tax preparation must take priority over recreation.

As it turned out, we didn't leave home until 7pm on Saturday.  Opting this time for a more direct route, we headed north on I-5.  After admiring the twinkling lights of downtown Seattle, we continued on through Everett and Marysville.  It was a cold and misty night.  The camp ground was at least a couple of hours away.  Did we want to pay $21 just to sleep there in the van?  Nope - this was an ideal time for some Stealth Van Camping.  We pulled into the Smokey Point Rest Area, walked around a little, picked up some litter, had a snack and called it a night.  We awoke Sunday morning to be teased by the sun; rays of light were filtering through the trees, but they brought little warmth.  The temperature inside the van was around 34 degrees f. (it was 3 degrees warmer inside the fridge).  I lit a stove burner to heat some water and not too long after the indoor temp was up to a balmy 50 degrees.  After a warm breakfast, it was just a short drive to the Park.


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On approaching the tulip-centric town of Mt. Vernon, we veered west on Hwy 536, then merged with SR 20 toward Anacortes (where you board the ferry to Sidney, British Columbia).  At Fidalgo Bay, we took a left turn and continued on SR 20 along Similk Bay, past Campbell Lake, Pass Lake and finally to the Deception Pass Bridge.  The bridge actually crosses Deception Pass and Canoe Pass with Pass Island separating the two.

Van Kid sprints over the railing...

To view the bridge (still a little morning mist)...

And impishly returns from the precipice

Deception Pass was named by Captain George Vancouver in 1792.  Looking for passage around the myriad of islands, bays and straights, he discovered a certain land mass to be an island, not a peninsula as he had supposed.  He felt he had been deceived, thus the name.  Apparently those early explorers were a bit touchy.   The pass is located at the north end of Whidbey Island, the 4th largest island in the contiguous United States.  The bridge is one of the more popular photo subjects in the state. We stopped to look before crossing and it's easy to see why.  The twin spans soar 185 feet over the water and afford expansive views from their flanks.

After crossing, we drove down to West Beach, a long sand and gravel beach laden with drift wood.  Nearby Cranberry Lake is just a couple hundred feet from the shore.  It was once a salt water inlet but the spit eventually closed completely and now it's fresh although they say there remains a deep pocket of salt water. Kind of strange, huh?  I wonder if some snails or something live down there forever cut off  from their ocean dwelling kin.  The lake and dunes are abutted by a very slow growing old growth forest where many of the trees are not more than 15-20 inches in diameter.  Each year, decomposing vegetation adds to the scanty topsoil, providing a bit of nutrient.  A trail runs through the dunes and the forest with interpretive signs explaining all kinds of interesting things you probably learned in school but have forgotten.

Van Kid is temporarily dazed in a thicket of Salal

Another trail winds back along the hillside to the pass bridge where you can then traverse the span on a sidewalk separated from the two lanes of traffic by a little handrail.  No fishing is allowed from the bridge, in case you were wondering.  Your bait would probably be picked off by a seagull long before it ever reached the water anyway.

West Beach parking - picnic tables and grills, no fire rings

Van Kid explores a hollow drift wood stump...

And scans the coast for pirates

A gnarly 850 year old Ponderosa Pine

Overall, West Beach was very clean, but we were inexplicably captivated by this collection of bright blue objects, all found within a short distance from one another.

The entire park covers over 4,000 acres and includes some small islands with miles of salt and fresh water shoreline.  There are several camping areas (some accessible only by boat)  and 40 miles of hiking trails, some through expansive stands of old growth forest.

After a full day of hiking and exploring several driftwood forts along the beach, we remembered the Wet Westies camp out.  By that time of course, they had all departed but I must say, they left a very tidy campground.  I heard later that a good size crowd of Westy's had been there including several new members and was sorry to have missed it.


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On our return trip we took a detour off Hwy 20 up Farm to Market Road to visit the Padilla Bay National Estuarine Research Reserve.  This intertidal bay is home to 8,000 species of eelgrass, a very important part of the local food chain. There is a smallish camp ground, the Breazeale Interpretive Center is informative, and miles of trails wind around prime wildlife viewing areas.  The late afternoon was fraught with cold, gusty winds and we were expected at home so, sadly, our time here was curtailed.